New Puppy & New Kitten Information

So you have a new puppy

You've just acquired a new puppy and with it, not only a whole set of responsibilities and concerns, but also a lot of joy and pleasure. It is a good idea to consult with your veterinarian about your puppy's health. For general information we also recommend you read some books about puppies and dogs.

General

Puppies should be active and playful when awake; but when they sleep they should sleep deeply. You should be concerned if your puppy:

  • fatigues easily during play
  • has coughing, sneezing, vomiting, diarrhea or discharge from the eyes or nose
  • has a "bloated" appearance (a full, tense abdomen)
  • has a poor appetite and/or a dry, dull hair coat
Puppy Nutrition

Puppies should be on a good quality puppy food until 9-12 months of age. This can be any major brand of dog food (i.e. Purina, Kal Kan) or a specialty brand (i.e. Science Diet, Iams). When making a change from puppy to an adult food or when changing brands, do so gradually over a few days by mixing the two types of food before changing over completely to the new brand.

Dietary supplements are unnecessary. Many owners, however, want to do something 'special' for their new pup. A multivitamin at the dose recommended on the label is the safest supplement. Other supplements- for instance, calcium - should be avoided, especially in large breed pups as it can often cause growth abnormalities of the skeleton.

Puppies up to 4 months of age should be fed 3-4 times a day; the number of feedings should then be gradually decreased to twice daily by the age of 6-8 months. One per day feedings are discouraged, especially in large breed dogs, as distension of the stomach may occur, causing 'bloat', a life-threatening emergency. You should feed your animal regular 'meals' as opposed to leaving food out and available at all times. Regular feedings (meals) allow you to be aware of any changes in your pet's appetite - oftentimes the first sign of illness. They also allow you to better adjust the diet to correct any problems your pet may have with weight (loss or obesity.)

Dry dog food should comprise most of the dog's diet. To this, a small amount of canned dog food can be added to increase palatability. You may add water to dry food to minimize stomach bloating in the large breed dogs.

Table scraps are OK for many dogs - greens, vegetables, pastas, lean pieces of meat. Acquiring a taste for these might, in fact, help when your dog is older and requires a special diet. However, table scraps should be avoided if your dog is prone to obesity or any intestinal upset. Always add the scraps to your dog's food dish (vs. hand feeding) - this discourages begging.

Puppy Vaccination

Puppies receive a certain amount of protection from their mother because she has already been vaccinated or exposed to infectious diseases. With time this passive immunity decreases and puppies are then susceptible to illness. To protect them, their immune system must be stimulated with a vaccine. A series of vaccinations is recommended because each puppy will differ as to when its immune system is most stimulated by the vaccine.

Puppies should be vaccinated for the following:

  • DHPP - a combination vaccine to protect against distemper, hepatitis, parainfluenza, parvovirus. It is administered at 8, 12, and 16 weeks of age (an additional vaccine at 5-6 months is recommended for parvo-susceptible breeds such as Rottweilers, Pit Bulls, and Dobermans.)
  • Rabies - required for all dogs residing in San Mateo County. A certificate of vaccination is necessary to apply for a required dog license. Rabies vaccine is administered at 4 months of age with a booster 1 year later, then a booster every 3 years.

    • Other available vaccinations:

  • Intra-Trac - protects against 'kennel cough' and is required by most boarding facilities. It is recommended for all dogs that might be placed in a confined area with many other dogs, such as in a boarding kennel, grooming establishment, or dog show. It is preferably administered 7 days before any planned exposure. This vaccine is usually given as drops in the nose. (An injectable vaccine is available.) Immunity is good for 1 year.
  • Lyme vaccine - although considered to be a controversial vaccine, this vaccine is designed to protect against Lyme disease. We recommend the vaccine for dogs visiting or living in high risk tick areas such as tick-infested hills of California or the east coast where ticks that carry Lyme disease are prevalent. Given as 2 vaccines 2-3 weeks apart, it provides immunity for 1 year. After vaccination, subsequent tests for Lyme disease will be positive.
  • Corona- to protect against the corona virus which attacks the gastrointestinal tract resulting in a "mild' form of parvo virus infection. Corona vaccine is recommended only for 'show' dogs, but is often also recommended by breeders. Given as 2 vaccines 2-3 weeks apart, it provides immunity for 1 year.
Puppy Heartworm

The heartworm blood test checks for the presence of heartworms, acquired through the bite of an infected mosquito. This can happen even to dogs that spend a majority of their time indoors. Heartworm preventative (Heartgard or Interceptor) is recommended for all dogs, those residing in San Mateo/San Francisco counties, and those travelling outside the area. Whether or not dogs are on the preventative, it is recommended that they be tested each year for heartworms. You can start your puppy on the preventative, without a test, from 8 weeks to 6 months of age. After 6 months your dog will need to be tested for the presence of adult heartworms before you can safely start him on the preventative.

All dogs, whether on preventative medication or not, should be tested annually. A current, negative heartworm test is necessary before you can purchase the preventative medication.

Puppy Intestinal Parasites

- Roundworms - puppies can be born with roundworms or acquire them shortly after birth and may be detected only by a fecal analysis. A substantial number of worms can cause a puppy to have slow weight gain, a bloated abdomen, or a poor haircoat. Roundworms also cause vomiting and diarrhea. Puppies can be started on worming medication at 6 weeks of age - they are given one dose of worming medicine every 2 weeks for three treatments.

- Tapeworms - These are the most common worms seen in dogs. They look like rice segments on the dog's stool or like sesame seeds on the hair around the anus. There is only one way a dog can get tapeworms: from ingesting a FLEA! One dose of a tapeworm medication (Droncit) will kill all the tapeworms, but you must also eliminate the fleas or you will see new tapeworms back within 30 days.

- Coccidia, Giardia - These are much less common parasites but they can be the cause of diarrhea and poor health in puppies. They can sometimes be found on a routine fecal exam but often they require special tests to be identified. The special tests are only recommended if your pet has unexplained, chronic diarrhea.

- Hookworms, Whipworms - These intestinal parasites are uncommon in our area of California but can be a concern if your pup comes from another area. The worms can be diagnosed from a routine fecal exam. They can cause very serious illness - vomiting, diarrhea, even anemia from blood loss. Treatment requires special worming medication.

Puppy Neuter/Spay

We strongly encourage neutering and spaying of all dogs not part of serious professional breeding programs. Under current San Mateo law, breeding without a license can result in significant penalty fees.

Female dogs - Spaying is recommended any time after 4 months of age but ideally before her first heat (generally at 6-8 months.) Spaying at an early age will virtually eliminate the possibility of mammary cancer developing later in life. Spaying must also occur before 18 months of age; if later, the 'sparing' effect of the surgery declines precipitously. Spaying also prevents infection of the uterus which is common in unspayed older females.

Male dogs - neutering is recommended any time after 4 months of age, not only to help with behavior problems (aggression, territory marking, running away) but also to lessen the chance of diseases of the prostate and anal region which are common in older, non-neutered males.

Puppy Fleas

For puppies less than 8 weeks of age we recommend bathing and the regular use of a flea comb to safely eliminate fleas. For all dogs over 8 weeks of age we recommend a monthly application of: Advantage (imidacloprid) or Frontline/Top Spot Both are topical medications that have revolutionized flea control. They are safe, easy to use and effective.

Puppy Training

There is no training that can take the place of TIME SPENT with your dog. Our best advice: IMAGINE the way you would like your dog to be at 2 years of age and train your dog to this goal from the beginning. CONSISTENCY is the key. Your pup, even at 6 weeks of age, is primed to be more consistent and more demanding than you are. The question is: WHO WILL BE TRAINED FIRST, YOU OR YOUR PUP?

Some trainers in this area include:
- Lynne Crosby (650) 728-7430
- Sirius Puppy Training (800) 419-8748 or (510) 658-8588
- Perfect Paws Inc. (415) 647-8000 www.perfectpaws.com
- K-9 Insight Obedience (650) 596-9663

So You Have A New Kitten

You've just acquired a kitten and with it, not only a whole set of responsibilities and concerns, but also a lot of joy and pleasure. To start with, it is a good idea to consult with your veterinarian about your kitten's health. For general information we also recommend you read some books about kittens and cats.

  • fatigues easily during play
  • has coughing, sneezing, vomiting, diarrhea, or discharge from the eyes or nose
  • has a "bloated" appearance (a full, tense abdomen)
  • has a poor appetite and/or a dry coat
Kitten Nutrition

Kittens should eat good quality kitten food until 9-12 months of age. This can be any major brand of cat food (i.e. Purina, Friskies) or a specialty brand (i.e. Science Diet, Iams). When making a change from kitten to adult food or when changing brands, do this gradually over a few days by mixing the two types before changing over completely to the new food. The addition of cow's milk to the diet is not necessary and can cause diarrhea. Some special types of lactose-free milk for cats are available but this isn't an essential part of their diet. Table scraps and human food should be avoided to prevent obesity, to control urinary problems and intestinal upset, and to discourage begging.

Kitten Vaccination

Kittens receive a certain amount of protection from their mother because she has already been vaccinated or exposed to infectious diseases. With time this passive immunity decreases and the kittens are then susceptible to illness. To protect them, their immune system must be stimulated with a vaccine. A series of vaccinations is recommended because each kitten will differ as to when its immune system is most stimulated by the vaccine.

Kittens should be vaccinated for the following:
- FVRCP- a combination vaccine to protect against rhinotracheitis, calicivirus, panleukopenia, and chylamydia
- Rabies- legally required of all cats residing in Belmont, Brisbane, East Palo Alto, Half Moon Bay, Hillsborough, San Mateo and all unincorporated areas of San Mateo county
- FELV- a vaccine to protect against feline leukemia-- recommended for all cats that spend some or all of their time outdoors.

A recommended vaccination schedule is as follows:
- FVRCP- (4 in one shot) 2 to 3 vaccines given every 3-4 weeks with the first one given at 8 weeks of age or older and the final one given at 16 weeks of age or older. At LMVH we usually give them at 8, 12 and 16 weeks of age. For adult cats, boosters are recommended every 1-3 years, depending on the cat's lifestyle.
- Rabies- given at or after the age of 16 weeks. The first one is good for 1 year and all subsequent rabies vaccines are good for 3 years.
- FELV test- is recommended for all kittens at any age since they can be born with it or acquire it soon after birth.
- FELV vaccines - a series of 2 shots given 2-4 weeks apart with the first vaccination given at 10 weeks of age or older. For adult cats boosters are recommended every 1-3 years, depending on the cat's lifestyle. For cats less than 16 weeks of age or any cat with a history of a vaccine reaction, it is best to give only one vaccine at one time.

Kitten Intestinal Parasites/Worms

- Roundworms - kittens often acquire them from their mother. A bloated abdomen, vomiting, diarrhea, a poor hair coat or failure to gain weight can occur from a heavy infestation of worms. The adult worms are long, white, and spaghetti-like and are occasionally passed in the feces or even vomited up. It is not uncommon for kittens to not show any apparent worms in the stool since the eggs are microscopic, can be shed intermittently, and thus missed on a routine fecal analysis. Because of this, we recommend that all kittens be de-wormed routinely with Nemex or Strongid-T liquid. Because roundworms can be transmitted from cats to humans (children are especially at risk), it is important that kittens be appropriately treated.

- Tapeworms - these are commonly seen coming directly from the animal's rectum or can be found on its feces or bedding. Tapeworms look like grains of rice or sesame seeds when dried. Cats acquire tapeworms through the ingestion of fleas while grooming themselves. So in addition to de-worming kittens with Droncit, it is also recommended you treat them for fleas.

If your kitten/cat has intermittent or on-going diarrhea we recommend a fecal (stool) analysis to screen for possible worm infestation.

Kitten Neuter/Spay

Female cats - spaying is recommended any time between 4-6 months of age before they come into heat. You should keep your cat indoors until she is spayed to avoid pregnancy. During the breeding season, which usually starts in January and ends anytime between June and November, cats will continually cycle until they are bred or are spayed. Cats can be spayed while in heat or while in early pregnancy and, if precautions are taken, later in pregnancy.

Male cats - neutering is recommended anytime between 4-6 months of age to reduce typical male behavior such as spraying or getting into fights over territory. You should keep your cat indoors until he is neutered to prevent him from mating with other cats and to avoid fighting, which may cause him harm.

Common Kitten Ailments

Upper respiratory infections - basically, a "cold" virus that will cause kittens to sneeze, become congested, and have discharge of the nose and/or eyes. Secondary bacterial infections are common. Supportive care is important along with topical and/or systemic antibiotics and decongestants.

Eye infections - along with respiratory diseases kittens can get red, watery or swollen eyes from a variety of viral and bacterial diseases. Symptoms may be mild to severe and the infections need to be treated with topical and/or systemic antibiotics.

Ear mites - cause black crusty material to accumulate in the ears which then become itchy. Ears need to be cleaned and treated as ear mites cause discomfort to the cat and can be transmitted other cats in the household. Standard treatment is medication applied topically or given systemically by a series of injections.

Ringworm - not actually a worm, but rather a fungus that can cause crusty skin lesions that may or may not be itchy. If just a small area is affected, ringworm sometimes resolves without treatment but it may warrant topical treatment. If, however, the lesions are widespread, ringworm will require systemic treatment. Ringworm can also infect children and adults in the same household.

Anemia - this can result if there are many fleas which literally suck out much of the kitten's blood. The fleas must be kept under control (see below.)

Kitten Fleas

Kittens and cats - daily flea combing is a non-toxic way to kill adult fleas. This can be done alone or combined with occasional bathing with a kitten-safe flea shampoo (i.e. pyrethrins or allerthrins.) 'Program' (lufenuron) and 'Advantage' (imidacloprid) are labeled for use in kittens 8 weeks and older. 'Program' is given orally on a monthly basis: it disrupts the flea's life cycle by preventing the female adult flea from laying eggs. 'Advantage' is applied topically on a monthly basis and directly kills the adult flea. 'Frontline/Top Spot' is labeled for use in kittens 12 weeks and older and is applied topically on a monthly basis to kill both fleas and ticks. Topically applied, over-the-counter flea products should not be used in kittens and used cautiously, if at all, in cats (note: product should say: "Safe for use on cats.") Cats that are indoor/outdoor will normally acquire more fleas than cats that are kept completely indoors.

Kitten Training

Encourage cats to stay away from household plants. Some plants (poinsettia, Easter lily) can be toxic. While it is difficult to "train" a cat, some simple do's and don'ts can be enforced. If your cat likes to jump up on counters or scratch your favorite furniture, a remote punishment technique such as a squirt bottle or water gun can be effectively used to discourage such behavior. Cats can also learn to accept a harness & leash when taken outside. While it takes time and patience to train your cat, she can be taught these and other more specific behaviors.

Neonatal Kitten Care

The term neonatal refers to kittens from birth to three weeks of age. Kittens are very fragile during these first weeks. They are totally dependent upon their mother for protection, warmth and nutrition. Healthy newborns cared for by their mother are a vision of contentment. They spend 90% of their time sleeping against her warmth, and 10% of their time eagerly nursing.

Most mother cats normally take excellent care of their litters. They are meticulous about keeping the nest and each kitten clean. They are extremely protective of their newborns, and will move them to a new location if they are threatened. Abandoned neonatal kittens present a very different picture. Cold, hungry, and unprotected, they cry plaintively for their mother. Denied the warmth of her presence, they eventually become comatose. Abandoned neonatal kittens, unable to sustain their body temperature, slip into a coma and die.

When trying to care for an abandoned or orphaned kitten, it is important to understand that you must be very attentive to their needs and pay very close attention to how well they eat, how active they are, and how well they are progressing through the developmental milestones. One of the most important aspects of caring for a kitten is keeping good records; this allows medical intervention to be provided as early as possible.